This “alternative” Bordeaux is populated by the small independent estates that line the banks of the Garonne and the Dordogne rivers, where conscientious growers craft honest bottles for everyday enjoyment. This is the Bordeaux to which winemaker Jean-Marc Barthez belongs. The archetypal “dirt-under-the-fingernails” winemaker, he serves as the president of a small co-operative winery in Monsegur, an ancient village founded by Eleanor of Aquitaine in the 13th century. There, he oversees a handful
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